Moccasin.



w..s. BASS. MOCCASINIv APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4, 1914.

1,139,153. Panted May/11,1915.

Emi.

WILLARD S. BASS, 0F WILTON, MAINE.

MOCCASIN.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 11, 1915./

. Application filed September 4, 1914. Serial No. 860,242.

T0 all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, WiLLARD S. Bass, a citizen' of the United States, residing at Wilton, in the county of Franklin. and State of Maine, have invented certain nev. and useful Improvements in 'Moccasinsg and I heieby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference beling had to the accompanying drawings,

which form part of this specication.

This invention relates to foot wear, and particularly to moccasins or shoe packs, and its object is to provide a moccasin in which the toe piece will be attached to the vamp in a novel manner, which will render the moccasin neater in appearance and more water-tight and less liable to ripping.

In the present invention the vamp and toe pieces are united by a peculiar lap seam, stronger and tighter than the usual hand or butt seam. Heretofore in moccasins, shoe packs, etc., it has been usual to join the toe piece or top portion of the upper to the vamp by means of a hand or butt seam, in which the toe piece and vamp, after being properly skived, are turned outward, butted together and fastened by stitches showing upon the outer surface of both vamp and toe piece. This form of butt scam is not so strong and not so tight as a lap seam, and cases are frequent in which such butt seams open up sufficiently to admit water, or break away entirely before the moccasin is worn out.

It has, heretofore, been impractical to use lap seams to sew the vamp to the toe piece, because when the vamp is turned up around the forepart of the last to meet the toe piece a fullness is produced, i. e. the edge of the vamp is longer than the edge of the toe piece to which it must be sewn. It has therefore been necessary to gather or pucker the vamp so that its edge, when finished, is no longer than that of the toe piece. The difficulty in doing this gathering properly has heretofore prevented the use of a lap seam for this purpose.

By the present invention I am enabled to make a inoccasin or similar larticle of foot wear having the toe piece connected to the vamp with a peculiar combination lap and butt or hand seam which I will now explain more fully with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a perspective view of a mocca `sin made with the novel seam. Fig, 2 is indicated at 2c the toe piece then projects over the adJacent piece,

the lapped portion 2c of an enlarged section on line 2 2, showing a partially completed seam; and Fig. 3 is an enlarged section on line 3 3, showing a completed seam.

I will explain the invention as applied to a moccasin. vIn manufacturing y moccasins I proceed as follows: The vamp l may bey cut in the usual manner. The top or toe piece 2, or the entire upper if desired, is cut in the usual manner but sufficiently large to lap over the adjacent edges of the vamp as indicated at 2. Fig. 2. The vamp and top portions are placed upon a last; the vamp is then gathered in and sewn to the top portion or toe piece 2 by stitching 3 in the usual manner of lasting and sewing moccasins; -that is, the toe piece and vamp after being properly skived are turned outward and fastened by stitches 3 extending transversely through the edge of the vamp and through the toe piece; but such stitching is at a point somewhat remote from the edge of the toe piece leaving a proJecting portion or Hap portion beyond this seam, as in Fig. 2. This portion `2- of edges of the vamp and over the lower edges of the stitches, the edges of this portion 2c being then free and unattached, see Fig. 2. The moccasin is then withdrawn from the last and the projecting or lapped portion 2c of the toe piece is turned down onto the vamp and secredpthereto by stitches 4 passing through the vamp and toe piece and showing only on the outer surface o vamp. rI`he stitches 4: may be sewn by hand or machine, I prefer `to sew them with 'a machine making lock stitches.

A moccasin or other foot wear having the vamp and top united in the above described manner possesses the advantages, (l) of permitting proper gathering of the vamp by the hand seam; (2) of permitting the use of a lap seam to unite the vamp and the toe which in itself is stronger and tighter than a hand seam; and (3) of combining a hand seam and a lap seam which reinforce and strengthen each other.

It. will be seen by reference to the drawings that this construction gives an' unusually attractive finished appearance to the toe of the moccasin; only the portion of the rows of stitching 3 in the toe piece showing externally and the rough or butt edge of the vamp being entirely covered vand concealed the toe piece;

l fthev toe-piece being fastened to the vamp first,

by a seam in which the stitches pass directly through the edge of the vamp and through the toe-piece some distance from its edge, and secondly, by a lap seam in which the stitches pass through the vamp and through the projecting portion ofthe toe-piece which overlaps the edge of the Vamp and covers the stitches of the first seam on the outer yside of the vamp.

2. A moccasin having a vamp and a toepiece projecting over the adjacent edge of the vamp, and secured thereto bv stitches passing through the toe-piece and through the edge of the vamp so that a portion of the toe-piece projects beyond said point of attachment and the edge of the vamp and laps a short distance onto the surface of the vamp covering the edge of the vamp and the stitches underlying it on the outer side of the vamp; the toe-piece being further fastened to the vamp by a seam in which the stitches pass through the vamp and the projecting edge o the toe-piece.

3. A inoccasin'having a vamp of usual form, a toe 4piece large enough te project over the adjacent edges of the Vamp.,l said 'toe piece being sevved to the vamp by a seam jecting portion of the toe piece so that the stitches appear on the outer surface of the toe piece and the inner surface of the vamp.

5. A moccasin having a vamp of the usual form and a toe-piece projecting over the adn jacent edge of the vamp, said toe-piece being fastened to the vamp by a seam formed by stitches passing through the edge of the vamp and through an overlying portion of v the toe-piece some distance from the edge ci the latter; said t0e-piece being further iastened to the vamp by a lap seam in which the stitches pass through the vamp and the projecting edge of the toe-piece.

ln testimony that l claim the foregoing as my own, l atlix my signature in presence of two Witnesses. l

WILLARD S. Witnesses:

. A. Comms,- C. SHAKER 

